A Call for More Savory Buns

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A Call for More Savory Buns
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If only every cinnamon bun in the world were a savory one instead

In Middlebury, Vermont there’s a restaurant that primarily sells buns — sweet buns, savory buns, but always buns in a pleasing, spiral shape. Haymaker Bun Company operates out of the same space as the Arcadian, an Italian-leaning restaurant right on the Middlebury River.

A restaurant specializing in one item isn’t novel. Bakeries, in particular, often deal primarily in one item. But a bakery specializing in buns — and not loaves or doughnuts or even muffins — is unusual. Technically, a bun can come in a variety of shapes — anfeatures a Paul Hollywood recipe for iced buns that resemble small hoagies. Buns are defined more by their handheld size.

Sweet, swirly buns, filled with cinnamon or nuts or some other syrupy, sugary concoction, are everywhere. They’re at bakeries and on restaurant breakfast menus, at Cinnabon, sold in four-packs in supermarkets, and dominate the cases at coffee shop chains . And while the sweet buns are certainly a worthy treat, they don’t offer the same practicality as their savory counterparts.

Sweet buns are indulgences, thanks to rich frosting and literal heaps of sugar. However, with an ideal ratio of dough to savory filling , savory buns can be a hearty — and balanced! — breakfast. If they were more readily available, they’d cure many an afternoon hunger pang. In short, they serve a real purpose. They — like a hand pie, sausage roll, or Hot Pocket — are a meal.

Other savory pastries have gotten their due. Croissants stuffed with ham and cheese are sold everywhere from Australian import Bourke Street Bakery to Dunkin’. Spanakopita has surpassed Greek bakeries to be sold in the freezer aisle. So isn’t it time for buns? There’s no more satisfying snack than baked, bready dough accompanied by vegetables and cheese, particularly when swirled together to form one, portable, near-mess-free entity. Buns would proliferate in a world designed to my preferences.

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