After more than a decade, the annual Charleston Wine and Food Festival embarks on a mission to spotlight Black culinary history.
nine Black worshipers at Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church during Bible study, leading state officials to accommodate demands that they remove the Confederate flag from State House grounds. That same year, Walter Scott, a Black man, was shot five times in the back and killed by Michael Slager, a police officer in North Charleston, sparking protests when the officer’s first trial resulted in a mistrial.
Creating a relaxing, judgment-free atmosphere requires a careful balancing act, he said. “If all I said was, ‘White people suck. White people suck,’ we would not have the family that we have in here today,” he said of the group, which paid $115 each for their Soul Stroll."You grow and change with love. And with love comes grace, but grace without accountability, you create entitlement.
In 2020, Black, Indigenous or other people of color made up 16 percent of the festival’s chefs, beverage professionals, winemakers and musicians. This year they account for about 34 percent, according to spokeswoman Alyssa Maute Smith. The event wasn’t a typical outing for the couple, but “it was something we wanted to do to expose ourselves to a broader Charleston.”
There were two long serving lines, offering bacon, fried chicken, quiche, collared greens, lobster mac and cheese. And booze. Some people were hammered. Impatient attendees hectored burdened catering staff as they rushed to refill empty pots and trays. “If I don’t get some fried chicken, I’m going to ... lose it,” one woman declared to no one in particular.As the event wound down, several inebriated people hopped behind the bar and poured themselves drinks.
“How are you going to have an event in this area, in this part of the country, and not celebrate the history and the foods and cuisines of this area?” she said over the sound of steel knives slicing through onions and pots boiling with broth. “There’s so much rich history here for everybody, but specifically for the Gullah people.”
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