Summer squash makes a sweet counterpoint to this creamy end-of-summer chowder.
When the heat of late summer arrives, I crave chowder. Hot, creamy soup when it’s already blazing outside may sound ludicrous, but childhood summers spent down South reinforced in me a love of bubbling soups and broths that were at their best when flavored with peak season produce. Corn chowder is the obvious favorite, but 12 years spent living in the Northeast also brought me to the altar of clam chowder and potato chowder.
In comes this soup. Whereas you’d think cooking a sensitive vegetable like summer squash in milk and bacon fat would overwhelm it and cancel out its flavor, as we know from our friends corn and clams, it doesn’t. Rather, it brings out the surprising sweetness in the gourd, requiring a splash of vinegar at the end to keep it from veering into dessert sweetness. I keep the aromatics traditional because they already work well — onions, celery and, if you have them, fresh bay leaves.
Melt the butter in the bacon fat, then add the thyme, garlic, celery, onion and bay leaf and cook, stirring occasionally, until the aromatics soften, about 6 minutes. Stir in the squash, then cover the pot partially, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the squash is softened and reduced in volume by one-third, about 15 minutes.
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