Advice: In Sweden, embracing the cozy charm of a Nordic winter
she runs to warm up with a glass of glogg, the Swedish mulled wine, and some grilled Stockholmer sausages. She was delighted to hear about our baptism by Baltic earlier in the day.It took a flight to vault us nine degrees north to Kiruna, just above the Arctic Circle, where serious winter is found. Extremophiles have long come here for the below-zero thrills of cross-country skiing and reindeer spotting in the day-long dark of the season.
on the nearby Torne River. A blend of conventional hotel rooms and chambers sculpted from solid ice, the resort is a shrine to — and a hub of — deep winter. Based for two nights in regular rooms, we ventured out for bracing hours, saved from the chill by explorer-grade snow suits provided by the hotel. We plied snowmobiles over the frozen river and through the snowy woods, including one late-night tour under the green magnetic skies. Dogs pulled us for hours to a forest warming hut and back.
We sculpted figures from blocks of crystal-clear ice harvested from the Torne and hiked for Christmas Eve dinner at a preserved 18th-century homestead. Next door was theFinally, we went hard freeze, spending our last night in the Icehotel proper. There are 24 ice rooms constructed of blocks cut fresh each winter and various suites sculpted by artists and mechanically frozen year-round, along with a bar and gallery.
It was frozen-pizza weather in there, but with a heated bathroom attached and an “expedition” sleeping bag provided, the coldest night of our lives was one of the coziest.
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