An East Village pastry shop where red tortoise cake is the star

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An East Village pastry shop where red tortoise cake is the star
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  • 📰 Gothamist
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The worst choice you can make at Lady Wong is to leave with only one thing.

Walk into Lady Wong, a narrow Southeast Asian pastry shop in the East Village, and you’ll find cases full of gleaming sweets.

Ever since the couple hatched the idea of Lady Wong, they knew they wanted angku kuih on their menu. In Malaysia and China, it’s a good-luck food that's often served at birthday parties for the elderly or for a baby’s one-month birthday. Since tortoises live so long, they’re a sign of longevity. “Back in Malaysia, it’s a street food—we take it for granted,” Anthony said. “But when we made it here, we struggled. One time it would come out good, the next time it wouldn’t. I would ask my mother or my mother-in-law for advice, and then we’d say, 'Oh, it’s because it’s a 20 degree winter dayFinally, they landed on a recipe that worked beautifully in their test kitchen.

When the couple found the space in the East Village, they knew they’d have to produce everything out of the city — space is far cheaper when divorced from Manhattan ZIP codes. That March, they began producing their tortoise cakes in their commissary kitchen in North Salem, New York — not far from where they live in Connecticut — and driving them into the East Village.

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Sadanand Dhume — Opinion Columnist, East Is East at The Wall Street JournalSadanand Dhume — Opinion Columnist, East Is East at The Wall Street JournalSadanand Dhume writes a biweekly column on India and South Asia for WSJ.com. He focuses on the region’s politics, economics and foreign policy.
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