One morning in 2006, during the lull after taking the PSLE, a boy decided to watch TV. Jamie Oliver’s Jamie At Home was on, and the British chef was making a pumpkin soup. The kid thought to himself, “Hmm, I can do that!” With his pocket money, he bought some ingredients to replicate the dish, and it turned out… a...
Province
More recently, travels to Thailand and Malaysia in search of ingredients and suppliers for Province have made the 28-year-old more attuned to those who live off the land and within their means. I have a rice course on the menu that’s a mix of glutinous rice and jasmine rice, because I love glutinous rice – I can eat bak chang any day, every day! Every morning when I was in primary school, my Ah Ma would buy this glutinous rice that had been fried with a bit of soy, garlic, hae bee, then steamed and cut up into squares with peanut, chang chu la , spring onions.
But when you look outside, it becomes almost translucent because the sugars have caramelised. And that can only happen if the transport doesn’t take too long. That’s something I’m trying to recreate – the textures, the flavours, the smokiness, the different layers. This course has different textures – you get the softness of the jasmine rice and the chewiness of the glutinous rice. I soak the glutinous rice, then dry-fry it. I dry-fry kerisik, lemongrass, kaffir lime, garlic and diced onions, and season those aromatics before adding the rice. Then I steam it.
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