The joyful Latinx energy is infectious at this beautiful restaurant and rum bar near Rittenhouse Square, an inspired modern homage to the flavors of chef-partner Yun Fuentes' Puerto Rican upbringing.
The staccato call of a piano echoes through the palm-fringed skylight dining room at Bolo. “Manteca!” cries a member of the 1961 Alegre All Stars, and a rolling wave of pulsing congas, rasping guiros and horns pipe in.
There are the cracker-thin tostones as big your face glossed with key lime mojo. Salmon tiradito bathed in an “ají-pasión” brew of fruit and chilies. Juicy morsels of chicken chicharrones fried to a crackling snap in lard .
Bacalaitos salt cod fritters are turned into tostada-shaped discs that dangle from a skewer above a crock of Maryland blue crab salad dusted with horseradish. The usual gouda inside sorullitos corn fritters is replaced with oozy Seven Sisters from Chester County’s Doe Run. And the Rittenhouse Square farmers market is what inspired Fuentes’ novel take on a lighter sancocho.
The nearly 40-item savory menu is huge, but has clearly “been brewing for a long time” in Fuentes’ mind as the 45-year-old took a long detour through other cuisines, working a circuit of Garces restaurants to DK Sushi, Double Knot and the French-infused American fare of the Wayward.
Family references are everywhere, from the three-inch-high pouf of frothy egg white hovering atop the Beehive cocktail that’s a ginger-infused wink to his abuela’s hair salon, to the gnocchi-like corn and coconut milk dumplings called guanimes, a specialty of his great-grandma Lula, that turns an easily overlooked side of hen of the woods mushrooms into a must-order dish. The guanime are poached in a “Boricua dashi” of root vegetable broth steeped with banana leaves.
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