Turn, turn, turn. Zac Posen has enlisted Steven Sebring to shoot 360-degrees of the glorious Winnie Harlow in his spring collection.
The model’s body language is gloriously seductive as she works a major-glamour gown that draws imprecise lines to both Swan-generation elegance and Eighties glitz. Her carriage has the gazelle-like grace of forebears who once populated the cabines of Halston and Yves Saint Laurent. But her hair, worked into intricate Fulani braids, and her complexion, unique among the known stars of her profession, radiate 21st–century distinction.
The occasion is Posen’s Spring 2020 shoot. Several seasons ago, he eschewed the formal runway, preferring to experiment with various approaches to photography. All in on high-tech this season, he engaged photographer Steven Sebring, who had spent the last several years developing 3-D methods. For the first time, Posen designed the collection partly on an iPad, using the program Procreate; until now, he’d been resolutely a hands-on, draping kind of guy. Then came an assignment for the New York City Ballet — he and Anna Sui are this year’s designers for the Ballet’s Fashion Gala in the fall; Posen, for a work choreographed by Lauren Lovette.
Nuance indeed. The collection is large and diverse, the dialogue between structure and fluidity played out from one dress to the next and, often, in a single look. An array of stately ball gowns and structured columns with bold appendages are all about precision silhouette while a deep teal chiffon-and-crepe Empire gown with an intricately worked bodice is all about romantic ease.
Once Harlow enters the drum, its big sliding door is closed. Sebring communicates via a mic and headphones while watching her on a screen visible to all in the room, a woman alone and sequestered, yet in plain view. An uncomfortable feeling for the person with invisible eyes on her? Not according to Harlow.
For Harlow, the mental prep to play multiple characters is pretty easy. “I prepare by trying to get sleep, especially for a shoot like this where it’s so much about energy and bringing personality to set,” she says, noting that this is her first job after a vacation in Miami and Jamaica, where she’s from and which inspires her attitude on set. “I can hear feedback in here while I’m moving and dancing and vibing,” she says.
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