Head to this former seat of Ottomans and kings to find extraordinary landscapes, an emerging food scene and exuberant nightlife
Bosnians have a saying that goes: ‘Where logic ends, Bosnia and Herzegovina begins.’ Which makes complete sense when you dig into its history. This former Ottoman frontier is one of only three Muslim-majority countries in Europe, a heritage visible in the labyrinthine bazaars and jewel-bright mosques of Sarajevo and Mostar.
Walk out of the capital’s Old Town, however, and you’ll encounter the fine geometry of Austro-Hungarian churches, followed by hazy Yugoslavian-style basement bars that pulse with Balkan turbo-folk music. Confronted with a history spanning many centuries and empires, you realise that the 1992-1995 Bosnian War was but a chapter. Some mortar scars remain, but the scale of the reconstruction effort, like so many things about this country, is mind-boggling.
You certainly won’t be short of things to do here. Bosnian businesses have been busy making nature and culture more accessible to visitors, working with partners like the United States Agency for International Development . The results can be seen in initiatives such as the Herzegovina Wine Route, opened in September 2021 — making it easier than ever to toast your trip with a generous glass of red Blatina. Wake early in the capital Sarajevo to catch the cable-car to Trebević mountain.
bar in the northern neighbourhood of Višnjik for seasonal, fusion street food such as red trout sushi tart and fried veal sandwiches. Forty years of Austro-Hungarian rule left its fingerprints all over Sarajevo, not least with the grand theatre on Susan Sontag Square — the writer staged a production ofhere in 1993 that drew such attention, many believe it helped end the war. From here, it’s a short stroll to the Markale food market.
Sarajevo has a lively social scene, with plenty of cafes and restaurants; here, people sit outside on Kovači Street near the centre.Please be respectful of copyright. Unauthorized use is prohibited., Bosnia and Herzegovina’s adventure capital. Book in advance to arrange river rafting and tours of Tito’s Bunker, available by appointment only. The bunker was believed to be a weapons storage facility until the 1990s, when its true purpose was revealed following the breakup of Yugoslavia.
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