The various smoked elements added an ingratiating Texas feel to the tall, messy Smokey Burg, writes restaurant critic Alison Cook.
, too. Their burger shop is a neat, business-like little place, trimmed with a bit of blue-and-gray Mexican tile for atmospherics, that sits across from the green athletic fields of the Emery/Weiner school. The neighborhoods of Willowbend, Meyerland and Westbury are within easy striking distance, which means at suppertime, around 6:15 p.m., the 52-seat dining room is likely to be packed.
Interestingly, the advent of Pepe’s makes Stella Link from Link Valley up to Braeswood Place a mini burger corridor these days. About 20 blocks north sits JLB Eatery, the Korean-owned spot whose Crazy Burger leftPepe’s website claims hopefully that it’s “near the Reliant Stadium area,” but that’s a little bit of a stretch. They do have a flatscreen playing sports, however; and a sporty clientele of joggers, student athletes still in their uniforms, and even a skaterboi toting his board.$11.
I had expected a thinner version of “smash” technique, so the patty’s thickness surprised me. It was cooked well-done , but it had ample juice and a calm, grounded beef flavor to go with its griddled sear. I would have like more raw onion in the mix, and next time I’d lose the avocado add-on, but the exploding ribbonettes of iceberg amused me to the last bite.
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