Can New York be a great herring town again? An Upper West Side spinoff of a Tel Aviv market kiosk is betting on it
Sherry Herring’s matjes herring sandwich, with gobs of sour cream and slivers of chile. Photo: Liz Clayman Before New York was a bagels-lox-and-cream-cheese town it was a herring town. The founding Dutch were pickled-herring addicts to a one. The English and Germans were smitten with the stuff, too. Ditto the Scandinavians. Eventually, though, herring in New York became indelibly linked with Jewish appetizing.
Even herring odes masquerade as herring slams. In another list, this one taking the form of a 256-page book called The 100 Most Jewish Foods, illustrator Maira Kalman reveals that as a child in the Bronx she was the oddball in her family who found herring repulsive. “They stank,” she writes. “They were oily and, in my opinion, hairy. Though I know a fish can’t be hairy. But when my mother would eat a piece, I would see all these hairlike bones sticking out of her mouth.
For Ansky, herring was not an acquired taste; as the story goes, she had her first herring plate at age six and never looked back. “I ate one piece, then another, until I finished it all,” she told The Jewish Week.
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