If ever restaurants could bring a beacon of hope and change to a troubled location, writes restaurant critic Craig LaBan, this is it.
in 2007, though his inexperience with cooking Mexican food professionally at that moment was still apparent.
Jimenez fully refined his Mexican repertoire over his 12 years as executive chef at Stephen Starr’s El Rey, and now, without the constraints of corporate bureaucracy, his cooking feels more personal, more powerful, and more nuanced. This is especially apparent at dinner, where he puts a pause on tacos in favor of elaborate entrees that draw inspirations from across Mexico.
There are superbly tender shrimp Nayarit, whose citrusy, and garlicky guajillo sauce was inspired by a trip to the Pacific Coast. The same plump shrimp come rolled inside tortillas at lunch beneath a lightly creamed salsa verde that made for a memorably delicate enchiladas Suizas.
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