How did this place where cows and horses still graze in unfenced lots blow up into la playa mas “cool”?
. After the Peron era, government austerity and financial crises caused the hotels to fall into disrepair and as many as 20 years of abandonment. In 2021, however, five of the buildings reopened after intense refurbishment, with more to follow; this past season, rooms there could be rented for the equivalent of less than $4 per night.
Mariana Quiroga, an architect who directs public works projects for the federal government, has been leading the conversion of one of the SRO-style hotels where the rooms contained bunk beds for children. While her team is adding modern touches such as bathrooms in each unit, they’re meticulously preserving traditional elements such as the candlepin bowling alley.
When I asked her why not repurpose the bowling alley and theater, she told me they were part of the national heritage, and trendier amusements could be found elsewhere in Chapa and Mar del Plata. “These hotels allow people of modest means—maybe someone from Salta [in Argentina’s mountainous north], maybe someone who in 50 years has never gotten to know the ocean—to do something as simple as that: get to experience the ocean,” she said.
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