Maria Grazia Chiuri's pre-fall show for Christian Dior was a showcase for all the ways the French maison is interlinked with the artisanship of Mumbai.
Photo: ©Dolly Haorambam / Courtesy of Christian Dior
There was something quite mind-blowing about the whole experience of being present at Maria Grazia Chuiri’s introduction to India—or rather, to her making visible all of the many ways that Christian Dior is interlinked with the artisanship centered in Mumbai. One moment, you were taking in the epic scale of aon the harbor, silhouetted against the Gateway of India landmark, with a runway flanked by a carpet of multicolored flowers.
Earlier in the day, the creative director of Christian Dior womenswear sat chatting with Karishma Swali, the artistic director of Chanakya Ateliers, where all of the intricacies of the insanely detailed haute couture textiles are magicked up for the Paris maison. The two have a deep-rooted professional friendship that’s been going on “for almost 30 years,” laughed Chiuri.
Chiuri nodded, beaming, “because I believe that it is important to study the past very well, but at the same time to try to use these references in a different way, and also to renovate them. That is what I have tried to do when I look into the archive of Christian Dior. You cannot reproduce the past.”She’s been talking for ages about what she’s been doing with Chanakya to journalists backstage at her shows in Paris.
Even to drive through Mumbai to the Chanakya Ateliers is to be visually overwhelmed by the city’s burgeoning nature: the lush green foliage, the tiny flowers and manicured miniature topiary, the banyan trees lining streets, the overhanging cascades of bougainvillea. The rhythm of pattern and color bursts out from everything, including black and white striped curbs, murals painted on concrete flyovers, and ramshackle corrugated fences.
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