For now, teff is mostly enjoyed in the United States by Ethiopians and Eritreans, many of whom were forced out by political instability and famine.
Diners press toward the banquet table at downtown Sacramento’s Queen Sheba Ethiopian restaurant, breathing in a scent of home.
Tadese isn’t alone in her quest. Plant scientists are beginning to study the grass as a serious alternative crop. One of them is Tarrike Berhe, an Ethiopian American who spent 40 years studying rice and other cereal grains. “California is the food basket of the United States, but it also faces serious challenges with water in the future, so we need to diversify the crops that we grow to beat the threat,” he says.
“We decided to utilize its fast germination,” Azevedo says. “One of the advantages of teff is it has a short growing season, and so if we have the opportunity to plant and harvest one crop and plant another crop within the same growing season, it gives us an opportunity to make good use of our land resources.”
That leaves advocates such as Tadese and Berhe with a tough row to hoe. The United States lags behind Australia, Holland, Germany and several other European food powerhouses that have been growing teff for food, anticipating a further surge in global demand. Their primary consumer base is Ethiopians and Eritreans in the diaspora, many of whom were forced out by political instability in Eritrea and by a brutal famine in Ethiopia in the 1980s.
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