A surprising link between 20th-century American sportswear and Gen Z.
Dauphinette designer Olivia Cheng’s Fall 2023 runway show Thursday featured mohair blankets and hardware from the Bonnie Cashin Archive. The seemingly unlikely collaboration between the 24-year-old Gen Z designer, best known for
, a fuzzy ankle-grazing blanket skirt that can be hitched up with clips to make it easier to move around. Dr. Stephanie Lake, a decorative arts historian, jewelry designer, and owner of the Cashin archive, got in touch to express her delight that someone so young was interested in Cashin’s work and so began an Internet friendship.
To immerse herself in all things Cashin, Cheng traveled to Minneapolis where the archive is stored on a temperature-controlled floor of Lake’s home. “Stephanie’s family was so Midwestern with their hospitality,” Cheng recalls. “They came and picked me up in their family car and every single night I would eat dinner with them.”Courtesy DAUPHINETTE
, another key Cashin design which features a parabola-curved hemline. She also gave Cheng two mohair blankets. Cheng spliced one of them together with TomTex faux leather made from shrimp and mushroom food waste, adding a sprinkling of upcycled Swarovski crystals to make her own ’gram-ready rendition of the Parabola skirt. She used the other with vintage plastic belt buckles, leather scraps, beetle wings, and ceramic cabinet knobs to fashion a Dog Leash skirt with a parabolic cut-out top.
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