Vogue's Hamish Bowles shares his Easter adventure: Tackling a roast chicken.
All things considered, it’s a small miracle that I didn’t burn them, but with sheets neatly stacked up, on Week Three I decided it was time to embark on a closet edit. And by edit, I mean taking everything off the rails and heaping it on the floor while I sort items into such categories as “Absolutely can’t live without,” “Might need one day,” “Straight to archive,” and “Straight to Housing Works.” It should be noted that I never throw anything out. Ever.
Rediscovering this horde was surely a sign from Peter that I needed to get serious in the kitchen, so I started as I meant to go on with Madhur Jaffrey’s chicken curry . Then calves liver, with sweet and sour onion , minus 1 tbsp of creme de cassis but yummy nonetheless, and a puttanesca sauce that developed from a basic tomato sauce after I discovered that I had all the ingredients.
The evening before I was on a call with Joaquim, who was talking me through a blueberry fool that would set in time for Easter dessert, when I spotted a fruit fly circling some oranges . He suggested candied orange zest as another Easter treat, so I set to work peeling, boiling, draining, and boiling and draining again. Five times. He instructed me to let it simmer for an hour and a half. “Feel the candy!” he added, cryptically. “Don’t let it stick to the bottom!” Then he went to bed .
In the meantime, Sarah was directing operations from her sitting room, where she was recovering from her own Easter lunch. Her beady eye missed nothing. I decided to keep the blueberry for a rainy day, but I had a red fruit and grape compote that had produced juice I’d also used to make a week’s worth of individual jellies . “Delicious,” said Sarah. “We’ll make a crumble for that.”
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