From Aldama’s vegan mole to Dame’s cucumber salad, Eater New York’s chief critic declares his favorites
Justin Lee, the chef behind one of the city’s top new vegan spots, has created one of New York’s. Lee braises shiitakes in porcini stock and adds a bit of smoked tofu for good measure. He then takes that ragu and piles it onto a squishy sesame bun for a smoky, bitter, warming, meaty-but-meat-free riff on the traditional sloppy joe.’s Eric Tran, by contrast, likes to make diners work a bit more, with offal-y, off-the-beaten-track preparations.
team have made this Thai-style fried chicken a vital addition to the city’s crispy poultry scene, ranking alongside craggy Southern birds and airy Korean wings. Cooks fry up boneless breast or thigh meat to a level of crunch that recalls a delicate, freshly made chicharron. They place the meat over sticky rice and douse it with powdery zaab seasoning, which cuts through the fat with a sweet-sour punch in the style of Pixy Stix.
Jasmine Gerald and chef Basil Jones opened this small Caribbean spot on Restaurant Row in the Theater District last November, slinging escovitch fish, jerk wings, saltfish and ackee, and a stunner of a brown stew chicken. The slow-cooked meat shines with a glossy soy-sugar sauce that practically screams with notes of garlic and allspice; the tender flesh yields when barely tapped with a fork.
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