Designers share the status of their deliveries, how they think consumers’ habits will change, and more. 🔐
With the coronavirus pandemic putting the brakes on manufacturing and retail activities on hold, European independent designers continue to work from home on their next collections.
Thoughts on how dressing and consuming habits will change after the crisis? I think it’s going back to what fashion used to be about: creativity, honesty and innovation. Design-wise, I think things were moving in that direction already precrisis: a little bit more authentic and a bit more real. Logo-mania was going away. It’s refreshing to be obliged to think differently about the system and how you are going to work going forward.Giuliano Calza, creative director of GCDS.
Your best advice for staying positive? @Mustafathepoet is one of my closest friends, a musician, composer and creative individual. After a few weeks in quarantine, his points of view are those I found myself considering the most. How are you approaching future seasons differently? What kind of production and delivery cadence makes sense to you and why? We are considering to set up digital showrooms, trunks shows, online line sheets and video calls. It might be smart to return to a more traditional schedule creating less collections, but I think it will be crucial to preserve special moments during the year to physically meet, talk and discuss.
What’s the status of your spring and fall collections, extent of cancellations and forecast for the seasons? Spring 2020 is almost 100 percent delivered and fall 2020 will go into production as soon as our factories reopen. We’ve had the chance to make a strong first Coperni show during last Paris Fashion Week that was very well received by press and buyers. We have had a more than satisfactory market against the odds.
What are your thoughts on how dressing and consuming habits will change after the crisis? I guess this period will be enriching for the fashion industry. At least I hope. There are the terrible human and financial aspects, of course, but we believe that fashion is about cycles, trends, society, and that it will be a brand new chapter for all of us.
What kind of help do you need the most right now, from whom, and why? What about three months from now? We need the fashion community to work more together for this to work. We need to have a platform to exchange ideas, and have more influence on how governing bodies, like the French fashion federation, can help us. Right now, the German government is already helping a bit through the emergency aid measures with immediate running costs, but much more is needed.
Your best advice for staying positive? We are trying to spread Sunnei’s positive spirit to our community through a project [developed] on various media, ranging from Instagram to Spotify. We asked international artists and creative friends, from different fields, who are experiencing the lockdown like us, to express their creativity freely and spontaneously.
How many people do you employ, and what changes have you had to make so far? We employ 12 people, some who have children, we have had to put all but three people on furlough. The three people who are working have taken up to 40 percent cuts in salary. How many people do you employ, and what changes have you had to make so far? We employ 25 people and have furloughed as many staff as we can during this period. We have retained the full-time services of our web/distribution team, however.
How many people do you employ, and what changes have you had to make so far? We are a tiny team: it’s me and three employees who have been with me since years. And then we always have two Erasmus exchange interns from fashion colleges around Europe. Thoughts on how dressing and consuming habits will change after the crisis? I sincerely hope that even more people will start to care properly about quality, fabrics, manufacturing, and that we all repair our clothes more instead of throwing them away.
Thoughts on how dressing and consuming habits will change after the crisis? I have always believed in quality over quantity in everything that I do. I think this will be a view shared by more people after the crisis. I also think it could be a really strong opportunity for the industry as a whole.
What kind of help do you need the most right now, from whom, and why? What about three months from now? I am still devastated to see people not respecting the rules and not wearing masks or gathering en masse. As hard as it is to quarantine, you can save lives. I could say something about my business, but I sincerely am thinking that right now we need each other on a human level and not business and money all the time.
Thoughts on how dressing and consuming habits will change after the crisis? The occasions of use will probably change and I also believe that we will get increasingly closer to a more ethical, transparent and sustainable fashion industry.Balthazar Delepierre and Ester Manas Courtesy pf Ester Manas Your best advice for staying positive? The French National Audiovisual Institute has posted a lot of clips from the Sixties on YouTube focusing on attitudes towards women, and the relationship between men and women. Watching those in confinement is a real eye opener and it feels strangely good.
How are you approaching future seasons differently? What kind of production and delivery cadence makes sense to you and why? We have scaled back on most new developments for spring 2021 to focus on our core products and building on the existing brand structure. We will be more cautious about adding new product categories going forward and focusing a lot more of our energy on our Gold Label vintage program.
How are you approaching future seasons differently? I already delivered the designs for the spring 2021 collection, but the manufacturing companies are currently closed so I just have to wait to see the first prototypes. I designed a smaller and simpler collection, with a big focus on offering competitive prices, without renouncing the brand’s DNA.
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