Break up the tasks over two nights, and you're golden.
Is there a dish you always order, no matter what else is on the menu? For me, it’s chile relleno. I started ordering the stuffed-, battered- and fried-pepper dish in my West Texas childhood, and haven’t stopped during a lifetime of eating at Mexican restaurants here and in Mexico. I’ve made them at home, too, sometimes battering and frying them the traditional way and sometimes baking. The latter can be perfectly satisfying with the right sauce and filling, but it’s the former I truly crave.
I said stellar, not simple. This recipe would be just the thing to make on a weekend, or perhaps spread out: On one day, make the sauce and the refried beans, and roast and peel — or even stuff — the poblano chiles. On another, batter and fry the chiles, and finish cooking them in the sauce. I tested it both ways, stuffing poblanos with refried beans and mozzarella, and anchos with beans and goat cheese. The combination of eggy batter, sharp tomato sauce, earthy beans and rich cheese took me right back to Mexico City. I like the fresh, herbaceous bite of the poblanos a little better than the deeper ancho, but it’s really like picking between your two favorite children. They’re both wonderful.
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