Feeding the city while fasting: What Ramadan means to NYC’s halal cart workers

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Feeding the city while fasting: What Ramadan means to NYC’s halal cart workers
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NEW YORK — (NEW YORK) -- Anyone who has lived in New York or visited the city is likely familiar with the smells -- and especially, the tastes -- of its beloved halal carts.

And yet, for one entire month of the year, the workers running these carts can't eat their own food during daylight.

Originally from Egypt, Ahmed said he wouldn't characterize the food he serves as similar to what he'd find on the street back home. Indeed,"halal" is not actually a certain genre of dishes. While the popularity of these carts have nearly caused"halal" to become synonymous with a type of cuisine, it's just an Arabic word describing permissible foods and meats under Islamic law -- much as"kosher" is in Judaism.

For about a century and a half, street vending has been a common entry-point into the job market for New York's immigrants. Since the mid 1800s, several immigrant populations -- including Greeks, Italians and Jews -- have reigned over the city's street food scene at different points. Most recently, it's been New York's Muslim community.

"Chicken over rice is the most popular dish at my cart," Hussain said."But I serve samosas, too." As a South Asian immigrant, he also offers mint chutney, as well as other items and condiments that reflect the food of his personal background.

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