Chef Law Jia Jun uses only ingredients from South-east Asia at Province.
Grilled trevally with seaweed XO, curry emulsion and wild ferns and la mian with Manila clams and chicken consomme at Province.When I interviewed chef Law Jia Jun about his restaurant, Province, in 2023, I wondered if he would be able to stick to his guns and use only ingredients from South-east Asia. It is a tall order and other chefs have tried and given up.
I usually lose my interest in tasting menus when the main course arrives, but this is the strongest course at Province. The two desserts showcase bounty from this region. Some, like wild sumac, I did not know were available in this part of the world. It is used in a granita topping osmanthus aiyu jelly, compressed melon and delicate ulam raja leaves, with their green mango flavour.
Pastaro breaks some of those rules. There are chopsticks at the table. And that black pasta sauce is not made with squid ink. That is buah keluak. Yes, chef Willin Low’s newest restaurant features pasta with Singapore flavours. Lion Spaghettini gets its name from lion’s mane mushrooms, which, together with pearl oyster mushrooms, supply plenty of bite. Walnuts add richness and crunch. I do not miss the meat.The most important one is Charred Napa Cabbage , a ring of said cabbage topped with miso butter, nori and bonito flakes. You unfurl it layer by deliciously charred layer with chopsticks.
That is when chef-owner Anthony Yeoh, 42, runs what he calls a Trolley Brunch . The value proposition is undeniable: staff wheel a trolley around the 60-seat restaurant, serving guests with plates of food large and small. People can have multiple servings during the two-hour seating.
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