Our barbecue menus are richer (and our fingers stickier) as a result.
Pork ribs are a staple of American barbecue. Memphis is famous for its dry-rubbed version, and rib tips are a staple at Chicago’s South Side barbecue joints. Even down in beef-centric Texas, pork ribs are in high demand, constituting one-third of the state’s"holy trinity," along with brisket and sausage.
The carcasses were then allowed to chill overnight and the next morning were cut into hams, shoulders, and"middlings" , which were taken to the smokehouse and preserved by curing and smoking. The parts left behind—the chine , the tenderloins, the chitterlings , and the ribs—were eaten over the next few days.
Industrial pork packing arose in the early decades of the century, driven first by improved river navigation and then by the expansion of railroads. Cincinnati, blessed with a prime position on the Ohio River and close to burgeoning cornfields and hog farms, emerged as"Porkopolis," the largest pork-producing city in the world at the time.
That started to change in the 1870s, when artificial ice-making and then mechanical refrigeration transformed meat packing from a seasonal to a year-round business. Now packers could hang onto spareribs and sell them to retailers as a low-cost cut. 1916 ad from The American Barbecue Stand in Phoenix, Arizona, an early seller of barbecued spare ribs. [Photograph: Arizona Republic, Sept 30, 1916]
But you didn’t have to be a star athlete to relish a platter of ribs. In large cities—particularly those with a sizable African-American community—ribs emerged as a late-night staple for the nightclub crowd, as club owners set up small pits behind their establishments and cooked a few racks to sell to hungry revelers.
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