Ganjang gejant—soy-sauce marinated crabs—are a family traditon for author Eric Kim, whose parents both grew up eating them in Seoul, Korea.
Koreans have feasted upon gejang since at least the 17th century, when live crabs were placed in earthenware crocks with raw beef—intended to plump up the crustaceans before their deaths by briny marinade. Even during my mother’s time in Seoul, nearly everyone she knew had to preserve food in salt. “If you had a refrigerator at all,” she explains, “it wasn’t very big, so you left perishables outside in the cold.
Meanwhile, on the other side of Seoul, my father, Ki, was doing almost the exact same thing, dredging rice in the tomalley of soy-marinated river crabs, coal-black and hairy. Then, in 1985, Jean and Ki went on a blind date set up by mutual friends. Within a couple months, they were married and wearing matching pajamas to bed.
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