Our diner-at-large searches for a superior soy-marinated crab.
I’m sorry to report that the crab at Rice Thief did not fulfill the fantasy. The problem was clear from the outset: The crabs hadn’t marinated long enough. The flesh was too white and too firm, as though the crustaceans had taken just a quick dip. Moreover, the gills hadn’t been removed, nor the belly cut into segments, so we needed to use our own kitchen scissors to get to the meat. The meal became a high-labor, low-reward afternoon.
Unfortunately, the rice itself was similarly disappointing. It’s the packaged, microwavable variety, and even though it only cost $1, the better move would be to make a fresh pot at home. But Rice Thief’s shrimp were true scene-stealers: plump, five-inch suckers with most of the shells removed and the heads left intact. The meat had the sweet, creamy unctuousness I’d been craving and was robust enough to stand up to the soy before allowing for a quick hit of shrimp brain at the end.
My itch, however, remained unscratched, the pangs made more acute by the fact that gejang is still hard to come by in New York. There’s a spicy version at the undisputed best Korean restaurant in New York,, and I like it, but the soy-based recipe is a purer preparation because of its relative simplicity.
The restaurant was full for a Wednesday night but not packed. We tried some of the more uncommon barbecue options — including black pig, a Jeju Island specialty known for its richer flavor — before we got to the crab, which, for $23, came with a bubbling side of dwenjang jjigae. Two blue crabs were properly cut into pieces, with a scattering of sesame seeds. I tasted the liquid — spicy, garlicky,and sucked on a leg.
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