Versace gets lost in the trends.
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Jil Sander, Gucci, Versace The big message of the Milan fall collections is that tailoring is the new streetwear. It is supple, as vividly colored as an athletic jersey, and the Italians, who are the best in the world at tailoring on an industrial level, think it will be the post-pandemic answer to sweatpants. But, as Alessandro Michele of Gucci knows, there’s more to the look than that.
Gucci. Photo: Courtesy of Gucci Gucci’s collection was also a collaboration with Adidas, with Michele deftly folding in elements of the sports brand — the Adidas trefoil mixed with double G for suiting jacquards in charcoal and kelly green; its three white stripes sometimes played off Gucci’s own famous stripes , its jersey separates converted into a long, skinny red dress with white banding or a pale aqua, rib-knit double-breasted suit.
Gucci. Photo: Courtesy of Gucci Sneakers and tracksuits are here to stay. What makes the Gucci show a model for blending two distinct dress modes is that Michele led with tailoring and at the same time proposed a variety of new dandy forms, like a quite slim double-breasted suit in dark purple with wide black lapels and a suit with a somewhat boxy jacket stripped of lapels. Michele brings something else to Gucci, which this collection makes clear — a sense of culture.
Jil Sander. Photo: Courtesy of Jil Sander Given Jil Sander’s storied past of minimalist tailoring, I was rather hoping that the brand’s designers, Lucie and Luke Meier, would choose this season to drill down on that. There are so many brands, referencing this artist or that concept or virtue, that a respite of beautifully tailored clothes would have been welcomed, even powerful.
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