Quiet luxury has prevailed.
It means something when even the usually rip-roaring label Dolce & Gabbana is showing restraint. Stripped down to essentials, with a minimalism that recalls the wave of philosophical Belgian designers of the 1990s, the collection was 80 per cent black. Zero print. No glitter and shine. Just impeccably tailored suits and sharply-cut pants, which were less swaggering than of late and with more of a soft curve than the macho monoliths that we have come to expect from this brand.
The label seems to have done a spring clean to reveal what is the true essence of a modern wardrobe for men: Shapely jackets, comfortable knitwear, fluid, sensual trousers that draw focus to the beautiful construction of the tailoring. And like a blank slate, the finale was punctuated with two perfect white crêpe suits, narrow waisted and curvaceous in the hip, as austere and pure as a South Sea pearl.
Eyes popped when Gucci unveiled its first collection since Alessandro Michele’s departure from the brand: There was no trace of the maximalist, be-logoed, magpie aesthetic that has come to define the Gucci look since his appointment as creative director in 2015. Designed by the studio, the clothes were literally pale and practical echoes of collections past.
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