A deeply-held belief at MeMe's Diner: there's always room for pie.
Chicken cutlets as big as the plates they’re served on and thick wedges of meatloaf doused in barbecue sauce—that’s what draws you to Meme’s Diner in Brooklyn. Unless, that is, you’re one of those patrons that slips in late on a Saturday night, the kind of diner that doesn’t need a menu because you’re only here for one thing: dessert. Specifically, an enormous slice of Bill Clark’s magnificent, wobbling coconut rice pudding pie.
It was a memory he wanted to share at his restaurant. But Clark doesn’t traffic in straightforward nostalgia, so used the pudding as a jumping off point for a wholly original dessert. On a recent Sunday morning, he showed me how to make it.The coconut rice pudding pie consists of four elements: a thin, pressed sesame stick crust, a mahogany-hued coconut milk caramel, a rice pudding custard suspending tiny black dots of fresh vanilla bean, and a generous heap of whipped cream.
“I want people to be comfortable and to really enjoy themselves here, and not feel like they are intimidated in any way,” Clark said as he whisked the sauce. “I want this food to feel like, you know, something you could make yourself.”And even if the thought of baking a pie from scratch makes you break out in a cold sweat, you reallymake this one. “This crust,” Clark said, moving on from the finished caramel, “is three components. There's legitimately nothing you can do to make this wrong.
Once the crust was baked, the caramel cool, and leftover rice mixed into a thick pastry cream, Bill began to assemble the pie. He carefully stacked and layered and swooshed until it stood high and gently jiggling on the counter. The sight of it didn’t take me back to my grandmother’s kitchen, or bring images of Kozy Shack swimming into view. But that was never the point.
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