Take a trip with us to the Union Square Farmers Market to seek out fresh tomatoes, then turn them into sauce.
Let me get something straight right off the bat here: I'm not sure there's such a thing as"the best" tomato sauce.First this guy has the nerve to claim he makes the best tomato sauce, and then, before he gets even two inches deep into his explanation of why it's the best tomato sauce, he's already backpedaling. What gives?
Second, the sauce should have a good, sauce-like consistency and have deep, sweet notes, which means cooking off much of the tomatoes' natural water content and caramelizing the fruit's natural sugars. Otherwise, it's going to be too thin and tart. But there's still the question of which fresh tomatoes to use when they're at their peak. The general wisdom says to use pulpy"paste" tomatoes , which are less watery. Those guys yield more sauce per pound of fruit and require a shorter cooking time to get rid of the liquid, which helps retain some of that fresh tomato flavor.
The three types of plums I got—San Marzanos, Amish Pastes, and Romas—are good examples of how much variety exists even within one category of tomato.Look inside and you'll get an idea of how their pulp-to-seed ratios differ. The San Marzanos, at left, were small and firm, with a relatively high amount of seed. Next, the Amish Pastes were mealy and soft, with the lowest amount of seed. The Romas were on the firm side, with a fair amount of seed.
It's hard to predict with certainty the exact flavor profile and balance of sweetness and tartness any given tomato will deliver, so the best way to arrive at a balanced sauce is to combine multiple types.
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