In Praise of Cheap Knives

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In Praise of Cheap Knives
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One writer's love note to his $10 Chinatown knife.

and beyond. But I can't help but wrinkle my nose when someone intimates that you can't cook good food without top-notch steel. Because unless you're slicing up sashimi on the regular, a 10-buck budget blade can work just fine.

I love how weightless it feels in my hands, how that cheap wood conforms to my grip so readily, how the blade's tall face makes it so easy scoop up fat piles of chopped vegetables. And I love how vicious an edge I can give it with a decent sharpener—a sharpness that may not hold as long as the best knives, but that can cut almost as well, good enough even for theThis knife is mine, but there are many, many like it.

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