Inside One Fifth, the Revived Restaurant Where Bourdain Once Cooked and the ‘SNL’ Cast Used to Hang

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Inside One Fifth, the Revived Restaurant Where Bourdain Once Cooked and the ‘SNL’ Cast Used to Hang
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The chef has made his new Italian spot a family affair, partnering with his father, the legendary chef behind An American Place.

menu of Italian fare is meant to be shared, featuring a selection of cicchetti and antipasti, homemade pastas, Roman-style pinsas and a few larger meat and fish dishes. Many plates source their ingredients from the nearby Union Square Greenmarket, such as the slightly tangy Tonjes mozzarella that accompanies an eggplant caponata.

The food is accompanied by a robust beverage program headed up by Scott Woltz, who works with Forgione at his other two restaurants,and Restaurant Marc Forgione. Here, American and Italian producers make up the bulk of the wine list, and each week the restaurant features one-off reserve bottles, which it displays in a beautiful wooden case behind the host stand.

Those photos and other artworks, by the way, all mean something: The One Fifth location is quite historic, and Forgione and his team wanted to be a “steward of the space,” as one of his partners, Sabato Sagaria, put it to me. In its past lives, the restaurant was frequented by New York stars such as Robert Mapplethorpe and the oldcrew, and chefs like Anthony Bourdain spent time in the kitchen.

Now, with One Fifth open as of Tuesday, Forgione and his team are hoping to add to that story, making new memories to mix in with those of the restaurant’s iconic setting. “I’m the luckiest chef in the city,” Forgione said. “It’s like a dream.”

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