KUALA LUMPUR: The “alley Starbucks” has cleaned up pretty well. Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam earned the moniker from students of a nearby college. Once ...
KUALA LUMPUR: The “alley Starbucks” has cleaned up pretty well. Ho Kow Hainam Kopitiam earned the moniker from students of a nearby college.
The husband and wife marvelled at the spruced-up coffee shop. Their last visit was 14 years ago, when they were college students.They reminisce fondly about its former shabby interior. Sometimes, they played truant to hang out with college mates there.Mr Tan misses the “gritty” ambience and dishes of his old stomping ground. Some of his old favourites, like the Indomie goreng with half-boiled eggs, are gone from the menu.
At the same time, these businesses need to grapple with changing operational realities, including a greater reliance on foreign manpower and automation trends.For heritage hawkers, preserving the taste is usually a painstaking and labour intensive endeavour. He explained that one of their most iconic dishes, lum mee , used to be served with fresh crabs. But these days, the high cost of crab would have doubled the dish’s RM8.50 price tag. Every rise in price risks customer complaints.
However, some heritage eateries are no longer the multiracial neutral ground they once were. The associate professor at the University of Nottingham Malaysia noted that there is a drop in Malay Muslims dining in non-halal establishments due to heightened religious sensitivity.There is pressure for heritage hawkers to stay true to the historical ‘brand’ that customers expect, even as they hire more foreign workers to cope with manpower shortage in the industry.
Penang’s famous nasi kandar, for example, was cooked and sold by Tamil Muslim immigrants from South India in the 1930s, as Dr Khoo explained in the book “Eating Together”. Coffee shops from the colonial era were mainly run by Hainanese or Foochow migrants.
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