Meet the chef capturing slow-paced Peranakan cuisine from fast-paced Singapore

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Meet the chef capturing slow-paced Peranakan cuisine from fast-paced Singapore
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For years, chef Malcolm Lee's restaurant Candlenut struggled. At one point, he wondered if he’d made a mistake, but he doubled down on Peranakan cooking and a cuisine he saw disappearing.

Jenee Kim’s Koreatown restaurant Park’s BBQ is an essential part of the flavors of Los Angeles — showing a generation of diners that Korean food is a thriving, evolving cuisine.“A lot of people are actually getting to know the cuisine,” says Jessline Lee, senior operations manager of Lee’s restaurants. She also happens to be his wife.

In the kitchen downstairs, Lee’s staff prepares the first courses of lunch for diners. They whisk away trays filled with small ramekins of keropok, a small puffed prawn cracker, and ngoh hiang, a bite-size sausage roll wrapped in bean curd.Next comes the pang susi, cracked and golden on top like a miniature pineapple bun with a filling of savory ground Iberico pork studded with candied winter melon and roasted coriander seeds.

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