The Hood has been at the forefront championing Singaporean and Southeast Asian cuisine to puzzled Parisians who have never even heard of the country.
Educating the Parisian public about pandan is merely scratching the surface. Aside from initial family resistance on opening a restaurant , most Parisians don’t even know where Singapore is, much less what Singaporean food is like.
The quality of food at first generation immigrant-run restaurants often took a backseat as the families were more focused on eking out a living than serving up authenticity with plush interiors. Indeed, while Paris has always exerted an outsized influence on fashion, gastronomy, art, and culture, it is hardly billed as cosmopolitan. Most of the narratives to emerge from the country are still largely whitedespite the fact that its resident population is a diverse mix of French citizens, expats and foreign-born nationals. That includes an Asian resident population that consisted of new arrivals as well as immigrants from older, more established communities.
“Paris was not an international city until recently,” explained Lee. “There was only a larger international community when the government launched the Talent Passport visa sometime in 2016. You didn’t get the same international influence like in New York, London or San Francisco.” “People expect Asian food to be cooked with produce that isn’t good quality,” explained Huynh. “So the harder part wasn’t the flavours, it was the trust. When we introduced chicken rice on the menu, people had a hard time understanding this dish. To them it’s just chicken in an Asian restaurant and asked why it’s so expensive.”“There was one guy who was insistent that we remove the skin from the chicken on the chicken rice,” explained Huynh, referring to the poached chicken.
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