Mini reviews: Here are five restaurants that opened in 2022 in Chicago, from Big Star Mariscos to three José Andrés restaurants.
José Andrés, the chef and humanitarian, cooked in Ukraine among many other countries this past year. World Central Kitchen, his aid organization, still serves millions of meals worldwide, in partnership with local chefs. They’ve become global first responders amid the rise of constant crises.
You might start with a Salt Air Margarita. The classic Andrés cocktail swaps the salted rim for a delicately salty foam. He originally created the drink for Oyamel, his Mexican-inspired restaurant in Washington, D.C., opened in 2004. The Sober Salt Air that I tasted substitutes tequila with Seedlip brand Grove 42, a citrus botanical nonalcoholic spirit. It is stunning, with sea foam breaking into a complex sweet-yet-tart finish, capturing the best beachfront memories in a sip.
You might be skeptical about potatoes served twice in a tasting menu, until they proved their worth as extraordinary expressions on opposite ends of the spud spectrum. Crisp chips ring a cloud of creamy dip swirled with Espinaler, the Spanish hot sauce that’s not so spicy, but as iconic as bottles of Tabasco or Cholula. The patatas bravas, however, redefines the tapa as precise thick-cut fries, grounded on an artful smear of smoky brava sauce, accented with poufs of garlicky aioli.
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