Daily News | Chicken liver mousse is Philly’s latest restaurant menu hit
At some restaurants, it anchors a composed toast, like at a.kitchen, where it’s slathered on country bread, drizzled with pear mustard, then topped with pine nuts and smoked dates. But at far more places, it’s simple, a go-to variable in a sweet/sour+savory+bread equation. A small sampling: Cry Baby Pasta ; Ember & Ash ; Abe Fisher ; Bar Hygge ; and Spring Mill Cafe .
The mousse was on the opening menu at Fond in 2009, and it became one of the restaurant’s mainstays — so much so that it stuck around even as the East Passyunk Avenue spotAcross town in Rittenhouse, another mousse has been on the menu since day one, at Friday Saturday Sunday. There, milk-soaked chicken livers are blended with slow-cooked onions, garlic, butter, and cream. Ample dabs of mousse adorned with apple butter and mustard seeds sit atop squares of toasted brioche.
While some chefs relish the deep, iron-y “primal deliciousness,” as Williams describes it, others just can’t.But Bush was persuaded to add it to Bloomsday’s menu after front-of-house staff requested it. Plus, poultry supplier Earl Keiser brings livers whether they want them or not, Bush says, so “it’s a great waste-streaming product.”
The bonbon has evolved since its debut in 2017, but it’s always been anchored by the same principle. “You want texture to break up that creaminess, and you always want some sweet and some acidity — creating that one biter without using a piece of toast,” D’Ambro says.
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