Keep it cool.
My grandmother Evelyn Watkins was a spitfire of a baker who regularly churned outat the drop of a hat. So when she’d come to Houston to watch my siblings and me during our summer vacations, she’d make pies with her grandkids. She would lean over me, take my hands in hers, and press them into a soft pillow of pie dough, cursing the invasive heat of the sweltering summer.
One time, as she felt our soggy, sticky dough that was basically begging for a cooler clime, she let slip: “You can’t do sh!t if your dough’s too fuck!ng hot.” Originally I thought it was my fault—that I hadn’t formed the perfect dough quickly enough—but really, it was always about the butter. When it comes to pie dough, keeping the butter as cold as possible is the key to achieving that gold-medal worthy flakiness. Once you’ve rolled out and folded your pie dough, those distinct bits of butter will steam as the dough bakes, creating the pockets of air that puff up into distinct layers. If the butter is too warm, it will combine too well into the flour, making the dough hard to work with and the final crust tough or cracker-like.
Start with cold butter, straight from the fridge. And if you’re using European butter, which is higher in fat and softer at room temp,Consider the temperature of your kitchen. It could fluctuate depending on where you live, if you have air conditioning, and the time of year. You’ll want to work extra quickly if you’re working in a warm environment like Houston in the summer.
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