From the Editor: What will the restaurant world look like when reopened? It feels close but just out of reach in this moment.
on the role of restaurants once they finally do get the green light. He surmises the days of trophy dining, of destination restaurants, are over. Take how we’ve been living now — totally dependent on our local coffee shops, grocery stores, take-out spots, home cooking, and wine stores — and look at how restaurants have adapted — as charity hubs and grocers — and extrapolate.
He writes, “To survive as the consumer landscape changes, restaurants will have to pay more attention to their local customers than ever before. If the neighbourhood has many large families, a restaurant might succeed by offering cooked-to-order or reheatable meals in a range of portion sizes. If there are few grocers in the neighbourhood, it might succeed by selling pantry and grocery items.
I think certain destination restaurants will still find ways to stay relevant, to attract a class of diner. But there’s a whole middle swath of businesses that are neither central to their communities nor special enough to seek out in this new world. A friend of mine owns such a place and is using his Paycheck Protection Program loan to completely remake his business, figuring this is not a pause but a complete rejiggering of diner behavior.
As Han writes, “Coronavirus will be with us for a while, but people will still have to eat. The restaurants that survive corona time will have figured out how to stay an indispensable part of that equation as the economy contracts and disposable income declines.”
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