Restaurant critic piescarcega reviews Los Balcones, which celebrates highly regional and traditional Peruvian dishes spliced with modern Spanish and Asian flavors.
The dining room at Los Balcones, a new Peruvian restaurant in Studio City, is a welter of cheerful, cathartic noise — salsa and cumbia rumble over the speakers, the throng of bearded dudes in the next booth gleefully toasts every fresh round of pisco sours, and you’ve got the sense you’ve stumbled into the best party north of the Hollywood Hills.Your server has spent the last five minutes rhapsodizing about a dish called costilla short ribs.
The dish arrives in a plain aluminum box that looks like something you might use to stow a first aid kit. Someone removes the lid to reveal a small parcel of bright red, chile-sluiced shredded beef. Your server was correct: a knife is useless here. The muddle of sauce and beef is served with fried plantains, a citrusy salsa criolla of shaved red onions and chopped tomatoes, and the hearty Peruvian lima-bean-and-rice mash called, which is draped in a thin, cakey fried egg.
The pan de la chola platter at Los Balcones includes Peruvian bread, aji amarillo butter, huacatay pesto, burrata, seasonal jam, prosciutto and marinated olives.
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