Mike Sutter review: Lazo with Don Strange transcends hotel restaurant expectations at San Antonio’s Estancia del Norte
Fold the chafing dish clatter of catering into the idea of a hotel restaurant near the airport, and you’ve got the perfect storm of modest expectations, a storm that formed when the Estancia del Norte hotel across from North Star Mall announced it was collaborating with the longtime San Antonio caterer for a flagship restaurant called Lazo with Don Strange.
The restaurant opened for dinner in May, and the concise menu is a blend of Texas and Gulf Coast cooking and Don Strange standards including sliced-to-order tenderloin, corn pudding, chicken-fried quail and something called Grilled White Wings.The tenderloin was the sort of thing you’d get from a carving station at a swanky office party, with ruby slices cut from the whole loin, dressed with creamy bearnaise by somebody in a vest.
Besides the Cloud Nine, I found solace in an old-fashioned made with mezcal, its smoky bitterness pushing it closer to a negroni than the bourbon-soaked sweetness of the traditional drink. I say “solace” because another cocktail was wrecked by a glass that smelled like a dishwasher, an issue that leached its way into the wine experience, too. Unless you like a Côtes du Rhône with a detergent bouquet.
Braised beef short ribs with bordelaise come with roasted carrots and parsnip puree at Lazo with Don Strange, the restaurant at the Estancia del Norte hotel in San Antonio.Working at Gwendolyn with the exacting chef Michael Sohocki, Myles learned the art of the long prep. The bordelaise for Lazo’s braised beef short-rib involves veal bones, Bordeaux wine, demi-glace, mirepoix and hours of observation.
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