Review: Lexington Betty Smokehouse barbecue in Pullman is not only resilient, but resoundingly good

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Review: Lexington Betty Smokehouse barbecue in Pullman is not only resilient, but resoundingly good
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Restaurant review: 'At Lexington Betty Smokehouse, chef Dominique Leach has some of Chicago's best barbecue, rib tips, and brisket on the city's South Side,' writes Tribune critic louisachu.

“When we opened there that was immediately our busiest location,” Leach said. “But COVID wasn’t done yet, and when dining in was taken from us yet again, Dr. Murphy’s quickly became our slowest location.”“I immediately called the landlord to let her know,” Leach said. “She said, ‘I don’t have any more money to put into that building.’”That building was where Leach cooked for all three Lexington Betty locations. She temporarily closed for two weeks, then moved out of Galewood and Dr. Murphy’s.

They’ve painted the airy open space in their signature colors of fiery orange and charcoal black. It’s still counter service, and a side patio remains available when weather permits in the strip mall steps from the Pullman National Monument. While the greens are the bestselling side for good reason, the Gouda macaroni and cheese comes in at a close second, baked to amplify its flavor.The smoked chicken and pulled pork rival any around town, the former with crisped skin, the latter silky, and both impressively succulent.

The wagyu steak dog, available cooked and dressed three ways, or by the refrigerated package, is a new item made by Vander Farmers, the Michigan-based company makingstores. But at Lexington Betty’s, the brisket and rib tips outdo the dog.

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