At a little over a year old, the pricey Italian steakhouse seems to be holding its own,...
Not every outside concept does. I’d argue that Houstonians can be a tough crowd, and the carcasses of failed imports from Cane Rosso to East Hampton Sandwich Co. litter our concrete shores.
What to order: Meatballs with tomato, basil,whipped ricotta; squid ink campanelle with blue crab and uni; lobster ravioli; radicchio salad with blue cheese and prosciutto; roasted carrot salad; steak tartare; Delmonico steak special; strawberry/rhubarb crostata.Ventilation: Large space with highish ceilings and palpable air movement.The kitchen is very uneven, and at Marmo’s sky-high prices, I expect more consistency.
Still, the house-made pastas can be very good. Frilled dark flutes of squid-ink campanelle get a sauce featuring blue crab, uni cream, basil and breadcrumbs, all underpinned by a fascinating undertone of herbal Chartreuse liqueur. A Prime beef steak tartare arrived in a boxy cut with cured egg yolk and prickles of caper and red onion, although I’m not sure why its miso aioli dressing had to have white truffle in it. I guess to luxe the dish up to match the $29 price tag.
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