Skinny Smugglers, a French King’s Body, and the Odd European City Home to the Other Cold War Wall

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Skinny Smugglers, a French King’s Body, and the Odd European City Home to the Other Cold War Wall
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Have you heard about the ‘other wall’ in the Cold War?

Of course, unlike Berlin, these are technically still two different cities belonging to two different states, but it makes sense to think of them as a single unit – and not just for historical reasons. Today, the border is largely invisible and both states use the Euro as their currency. Many people will live in one country and work or send their kids to school in the other.

The rushed nature of the border created several anomalies. One Italian farmer woke up to discover his stables were now in Yugoslavia and that he needed to cross the border several times a day just to check on his animals. But the most egregious example came in the village of Miren, 4km south of Gorizia. Here the border wall went straight through the cemetery, chopping graves in half. Not even the dead were spared from Cold War geopolitics.

“Those who lived near the border were given special permits allowing them to cross easily and more often,” says David. “And virtually everyone became involved in smuggling.” For their part, Italians were going to Yugoslavia to smuggle back cigarettes , Cuban cigars and rum and meat, which was considered better quality than in Italy . This last one still goes on today, much to the chagrin of Italian butchers.

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