'What could easily tilt into cliché instead becomes a character study of people on the brink of triumph or ruin — whichever comes first,' writes carolineframke on TheBear.
of “Shameless”) going home to run his dead brother’s sandwich shop in Chicago, is highly attuned to what makes a gorgeous dish. “The Bear” also details exactly how much frantic, eye-watering pressure every restaurant kitchen is under to make it — and as such, is one of the most stressful shows I’ve seen in a hot minute. If you’re looking for so-called “food porn,” this isn’t where you’ll find it.
From Christopher Storer and Joanna Calo , the series adopts a grounded cinema verité aesthetic to make the kitchen at Chicago’s Original Beef feel palpably crowded, greasy and, occasionally, alluring enough to justify why its employees keep going back day in and day out . The old guard, who worked under Carmy’s brother Mike before his sudden death, include quietly creative baker Marcus , stalwart line cook Ebraheim , and resident loudmouth Richie . There’s handyman Neil and wary prep cook Tina, played by Liza Colon-Zayas in a turn that reveals new layers with every episode.
“The Bear” isn’t shy about underlining its starkest themes or specific location of choice. It also isn’t the first show to tackle the realities of running a restaurant and working in a kitchen. It does, however, uniquely position itself to convey the boiling hot stress of it all, as in the careening seventh episode, written by Calo and directed by Storer, that unfolds in real time as everyone scrambles to keep up with an avalanche of to-go orders.
From the performances to the directing, to the steady pacing of the episodes , there’s a thoughtfulness to “The Bear” that keeps it from sinking into the pit of self-pity that keeps tempting everyone who walks through the kitchen door.
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