How Eater Young Gun Ashleigh Shanti bridges culinary history at Benne on Eagle in Asheville
, served in a former Jim Crow-era Greyhound bus station that once relegated black customers to segregated waiting rooms and bus seating. “I cried,” she says simply, of the experience.
“I thought we could open a restaurant that pays homage to the neighborhood and the food that was part of this neighborhood for decades and decades,” Fleer says. “These African-American neighborhoods were centers of creativity, they are critical to the story of Asheville. I said, ‘If I can tell this story, I’m happy to do this restaurant.’”
In true Sankofa style, Shanti and Fleer sought deep local knowledge. Hanan Shabazz, an Asheville native and chef-owner of a 1960s-era soul food restaurant, serves as culinary advisor. “She’s the grandma of the kitchen,” Shanti says with deference. Benne on Eagle’s fish cakes are named for Shabazz, who also makes the cornbread and offers considerable regional expertise.author Edward Lee ate his way through several of Shanti’s dishes, but one left a deep impression.
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