All hail Hamburger Mary's!
It's the night before Thanksgiving, or Transgiving, as our server, Barbie, reminds us. Unlike the namesake doll, however, this Barbie is brassy, curvy, red-haired, and Latina. Another server plops a flimsy blue phallic straw in my cherry red martini named the Sarah Jessica Parker. Elsewhere on the table we’ve got Britney Spears and TaTas to accompany our Mac Daddies .
Before the drag queens sashay between booths belting out Whitney Houston, Hamburger Mary’s is, first and foremost, a burger joint. They make nearly every menu item fresh, procuring locally baked buns, and rotating seasonal menu items throughout the year. In West Hollywood, bodybuilders come for the ostrich patty and “celebrities from all over the world” have tried a Kobe burger.
But “It’s not a gay bar,” clarified Jewels, director of entertainment and marketing and “fabulous drag queen,” known for her voluminous Dolly Parton-esque hair and even bigger personality at Hamburger Mary’s in Long Beach. In her nearly two decades at Mary’s, Jewels noted that now she’ll see parents and grandparents celebrating birthdays at Mary’s. But sure, sometimes unknowing guests enter the bright purple, glitter-coated dining rooms and turn right back around.
“I think of Mary’s as a melting pot, the way the world should be,” Warner, the owner in West Hollywood, said.And while each restaurant caters to a slightly different crowd, Wright added that despite the bright colors, glittery accessories, and cartoon mascot, the restaurant is not targeted to children. However, in many locations, the earlier of two drags shows on a given night is often more family friendly—and there is a Mary’s Little Lambs kids’ menu.
On a recent Saturday night in Kansas City, a dad brought his 10-year-old son, dressed in drag inspired by, to dine. The performers took a liking to the precocious boy, downloaded his favorite song and let him lip sync a number on stage. “It’s amazing to provide the space for this kid who is still trying to figure out who he is,” Edmundson said.As Hamburger Mary’s continues to expand its glittery empire the future of the feel-good franchises is clear, at least to Jewels.
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