From classical dresses to extra-extra-large looks, the top trends from the couture season
Photos: Gorunway.com ; Courtesy of Balenciaga
season tells us her role is in flux. How else are we to read the coexistence of weaponized cone-bra breasts at Jean Paul Gaultier and rose busts at Armani Privé? Or Lisa Fonssagrives cosplay with couture quote-unquote jeans?Like the sword of Saint Catherine carried by Joan of Arc—the martyr and patron saint of France who was referenced at Balenciaga—the fall 2023 couture season was two-sided, a collision of beauty and body anxiety.
What is real is another big question of our age, and in fashion it has led to a lot of visual play. I’m not sure how to parse the emergence in one season of trompe l’oeil jeans and pseudo-nudes , especially because it was the latter that made the headlines. Are all fakes weighed equally? Whether the faceless humanoids that appeared at V&R were reveries or nightmares is up to the viewer. Some of the models in the Dutch duo’s 30th-anniversary presentation were saddled or maybe assaulted—it’s open to interpretation—by headless figures in black-tie. Did they represent the patriarchy?, some designers responded with armor-like clothes. The linkage of the 2020s with the Dark Ages feels cautionary.
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