The Upper East Side institution has hit the refresh button on the first installment of “Part One: In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” with a continued emphasis on the here and now.
As a nod to the war in Ukraine, a dress by Ukrainian designer Valentina Sanina Schlee, who was known simply as “Valentina” and made her claim in fashion Stateside, will be added to the show in the Anna Wintour Costume Center. “Fashion is the only art form that can respond so quickly and so directly to the times in which we’re living because of the ephemerality of fashion.
The expansive skirt of Abloh’s gown has “Verg” graffiti-like sprayed in blue but it also meant to relay “Fragility,” one of the exhibition’s 12 overarching themes. Each garment on display also has a word bubble headpiece designed by Stephen Jones and 19 words such as “recollection” and “attachment” have been added to the mix.
“I’ve always felt that fashion is so central to our lives, but that centrality is becoming so globalized. There is this incredible hunger for fashion because the speed of fashion has become so much more accelerated, and the production of fashion, in terms of what’s expected from designers right now – cruise collections, fall collections…the expectation to deliver constantly is huge. That’s also being partly fed by people’s consumption of fashion and their interest in fashion,” Bolton said.
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