Where to taste the best mole dishes in the food-obsessed Mexican city of Oaxaca—and where to find standouts in the U.S.
FEW THINGS in the world give me a more joyous flood of sensory overload than a walk through a sprawling market in Oaxaca , the capital of Mexico’s most culturally and geographically diverse state, which shares its name.
At least 16 indigenous languages are spoken by people in the state’s eight regions, which span from the Pacific coast through cloud forests to arid valleys and mountains. Seeing all that Oaxacans gather and grow—from umpteen mango varieties to baskets of toasted grasshoppers can boggle the mind and induce prodigious hunger. No family of dishes satisfies that hunger, or expresses...
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