The Underrated Pleasures of Eating Dinner Early

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The Underrated Pleasures of Eating Dinner Early
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From 2019: An ode to eating dinner as early as possible.

,” the chef Skye Gyngell devotes an entire chapter to the meal, writing, “When you are eating later in the evening—perhaps after the theater or cinema—it is important to have something simple and light.” Even at a time in my life when “evening cinema” was not an oxymoron, I remember finding her menus impossibly glamorous.with sage butter, roasted persimmons. Clam-and-corn chowder, pulled bread, tomato salad, ripe figs. Her table is laid with white linen and beeswax candles.

You’re familiar with dinner and a movie? Well, how about dinner and a movie and a bath and a book and sex and rearranging your whole spice drawer if you feel like it? Early dinner is great in a restaurant, too: getting a reservation is no problem, the dining room is clean and fresh and running smoothly, nobody at the table is worrying about her meeting the next morning. The relative emptiness of the room nurtures a conspiratorial feeling, energy and relaxation in perfect balance.

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